Miramare and Proseco
Miramare Castle and a hike to Proseco.
The day began with an early morning walk through the piazzas and along the seafront, the sea glassy and deep blue merging with the horizon, the
plan today to visit Miramare and from there, hike to Proseco.
Dominating the gulf of Trieste is the majestic white castle of Miramare, constructed in the mid 19C by Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian of Habsburg as a gesture of his love for his wife Charlotte.. About 8 kms from the centre of Trieste it can be reached by bus, car or ferry, with the approach by sea spectacular.
On the edge of a promontory the building rises against the backdrop of a 22 hectare park and botanical garden. Maximilian and his wife were both interested in botany and collected plants throughout their extensive travels, the detailed drawings and paintings of which are displayed in a dedicated room in the castle.
The ferry trip itself was a treat, passing by the stunning Victory lighthouse with its angel on top and the delightful town of Barcola with its rocky beaches and forest trails. Once disembarked, there are a multitude of trails one can take to explore the park or you can head straight to the castle. We did a bit of both and were delighted to find a huge sculpture of a gorilla along the way.
The house and park are now a state run museum and with tickets in hand we set off through the building . It was already busy at 9.30 and with few windows open quite stifling. The couple had collected interesting artefacts from their travels which are displayed in the opulently decorated rooms; porcelain and cloisonné from China and a 2AC stone sphinx from Egypt sits on a parapet looking out to sea. I found it all a little oppressive and was glad to finish the inside tour and walk in the beautiful gardens.
View from the castle
There is a sad coda to the love story of Maximilian and Charlotte after they transferred to Mexico , he as Emperor. Alliances change and after the French withdrew their support for Habsburg rule, Maximilian was arrested by republican troops and despite Charlotte’s entreaties to Napoleon 111 and the Pope, he was executed. Charlotte descended into madness and spent her last years as a virtual prisoner in a Belgian castle.
From Miramare it is possible to hike to the village of Proseco, the original area for the production of Italy’s sparkling wine. We had imagined that the hike was relatively straightforward in terms of difficulty but discovered otherwise. Climbing up through Miramare park the trail took us steeply upwards for 2 kilometres. It was unrelenting with few flat spots to catch our breath, but while unexpectedly difficult the stunning scenery more than compensated.
On reaching the village the need for refreshment, was acute and after some enquiring ,bizarrely at the pharmacy, we were directed to the Trattoria Contovello, and after a short walk arrived at the very spot, an outdoor setting under trees and umbrellas. Even without a booking we were immediately accommodated and presented with a menu in Slovenian and English. The older woman in charge spoke Italian and some English and before we knew it there was a jug of Proseco at the table. What followed was the most delicious meal of the trip; creamed cod on crostini, followed by the most superb grilled octopus on barrata with roasted small tomatoes and a glass of local white wine. It was heavenly.
Lunch
The return to Trieste by bus was also quite an experience as the bus hurtled down the steep mountain road with little heed for the standing passengers, including us. This region is extraordinarily beautiful and diverse and it has been worthwhile to remain for almost a week and explore deeply. With heavy rain forecast, who knows what the next days will bring.
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